Edderachylis Text

Edderachylis

 

Principal Sources

 

RMS II (238) 1440

RMS III (2048) 1539

RMS IV (1635, 1669) 1565

 

RSS IV (1371-2) 1551, (3060) 1555

RSS V Part II (2718, 3141) 1566

 

Records of the Parliaments of Scotland (online), 19/4/1567 – NAS PA2/10, II, ff 22v-23r

 

NLS MS 19308 f 4 – Genealogy of the Family of Assint 1739

 

OSA Vol 6 No 33 1793

OSA Vol 3 No 79 1792 (Durness)

 

GD 84/1/11/4 1620

GD 84/1/12/1 1634

GD 84/1/15/13 1704, GD 84/1/17/1B 1644, GD 84/1/17/4B 1654

GD 84/1/18/15 1655, GD 84/1/18/9 1656

GD 84/2/2 1504, GD 84/2/4 1637

GD 84/2/70 1787

 

ER XIII pp 263-9 1509-10

ER XIX pp 52-55 1556-8

ER XXI p 466 1581-2

 

RS36/2/26v 1606

RS37/3/61r 1624, RS37/3/291v 1626

RS37/5/171r 1634

RS38/5/1v 1679

 

Retours (Sutherland) (2) 1605

 

NLS Dep.313/2988 Bundle 3  /4 Inventory /1 Charter by Robert, Bishop of Caithness to John, Earl of Sutherland, 1558

 

The following are available online via the National Library of Scotland’s Digital Map Library:

NLS Dep.313/3591/16 Plan of Achrieskill n.d.

NLS Dep.313/3623/11 Badcauld n.d.

NLS Dep.313/3623/16 Scourie n.d.

NLS Dep.313/3623/17 Handa n.d.

NLS Dep.313/3624/5 Survey of the Coast from Roan Island to Loch Eribol, 1827

NLS Dep.313/3624/22 Kinsally n.d.

NLS Acc.10225/260b Copy of plan of Eddrachillis Glebe, 1851

NLS Acc.10225/269 Plan of proposed Pier at Loch Clash

NLS Acc.10225/270 Plan of Scourie, 1830

NLS Acc.10225/286 12″ enlargements of OS map, 1874:

9 Sheigra, Oldshore More

10 Kinlochbervie, Rhiconich

11 Tarbat, Ardmore, Badcall

NLS Acc.10225/287 12″ enlargements of OS map, 1874:

9 Sheigra, Oldshore More

11 Tarbat, Ardmore, Badcall

 

A Genealogical History of the Earldom of Sutherland, from its origin to the year 1630; written by Sir Robert Gordon of Gordonstoun, Baronet, with a continuation to the year 1651. Edinburgh, 1813. (Hereafter: Earldom (Gordon))

 

Macfarlane’s Geographical Collections Vol I, Scottish History Society, Edinburgh, 1906, pp 196-200 of 1726 (= MGC I + page number in table).

 

Caithness & Sutherland Records Vol I, Part VII, London, 1913 pp 173-4

  1. Mackay, History of the House and Clan of Mackay, Edinburgh, 1829

 

 

In order to pin down Edderachylis I am going to start with the definition given by Sir Robert Gordon in Earldom (Gordon) pp 9-10:

 

Edderachilis is a tract of land which lyes upon the northwest coast of Scotland, full of wildernes, mountanes and rockes. It is marched at the east and southeast with Knokean-Challegh [Cnoc a’ Choilich NC 3734], and some other pairts of the Erle of Southerland his property in the Diri-more. It hath the sea at the west and northwest; it hath Assint and a pairt of Diri-Meanigh at the south; and it hath Durines at the north. It extends in lenth sixteen myles, from the east to the west, and in breidth nyne myles, (somtyme lesse), from the south to the north. Although Edderachilis doth apperteyn at this day to Macky, yet it wes never a pairt of Strathnaver, bot it wes a portion of the baronie of Skelbo in Southerland, and hath been a pairt of the parish of Lairg; though, since it went from the lairds of Skelbo, it hath payed no tythes to the thesaurer of Catteynes, unto whom the whole tythes of  the whole parish of Lairg doe properlie apperteyn. Neyther doth it at this day apperteyn to any other parish; bot that of late the bishop hath given the tythes to the possessor; nether is ther any parish church within it selff to this day. … Ther is an iland called Ellan-Handey [Handa], which lyes in the west sea, vpon the coast of Edderachilis, and apperteynes to it, or rather belongeth to Durines.

(Sir Robert Gordon gives a shorter version of this in Macfarlane’s Geographical Collections Vol II p 468).

 

Much of the above is useful in that it allows us to distinguish Edderachylis from its geographical neighbours. Gordon implies that Edderachylis (as part of Lairg parish) once paid tithes to the church dignitary who was treasurer of the diocese of Caithness. I have no evidence to support this but an assertion from c. 1630 is valuable. It seems that its parochial status was then uncertain although there would be sites where worship or burial took place.

 

GD 84/2/2 1504 gives ‘davach Edderachilis’. ER XIII p 266 1509-10 gives Eddirakelis a 40s rent – which implies 1 davach. ER XIX p 53 1556-8 refers to 1 davach of Edderauchelis. It may also be called a davach in GD 84/2/2 1504. The name literally means ‘between two kyles’ and although we might interpret this as a district-name it is, in these early examples, almost used as a farm-name. Ambiguity also clouds later usage of the name. Does it mean a distinct, definable, farm-unit, or a parish including more than 1 davach, or is it sometimes a loosely descriptive district-name? In the following paragraphs I have used the various sources to try and pin down what Edderachylis included. The above evidence suggests that it was a 1-davach unit in the early sixteenth century.

 

According to OPS II, II p 697 the parish of Edderachylis was created in 1724 from the west coast section of the parish of Lairg and part of the parish of Durness (Ashir & Ceathramh Garbh). (See also J Gray, SHR 20 p 286). A definition of the parish appears, in very general terms, in ‘The Book of Mackay, Appendix No 49’ of 1724. The bounds are from Glencule (Glen Coul NC 2730) in the south to Tarbet (NC 1648) in the north, and from Duartbeg (NC 1639) in the west to Aultinrinnie (Aultanrynie NC 3436) in the east – plus the island of Handa and the mainland settlements of Auldshoars (Oldshores/Ashir).

 

OSA (1793 pp 278 & 286) makes it clear that Ashir was formerly regarded as separate to Edderachylis. Edderachylis proper lay south of the River Laxford. Ashir (ex Durness parish) lay to the north of Laxford. In 1793 Ashir is described as a davach (OSA Vol VI No 33 p 279 for Edderachylis). Kerru-Garbh is Ceathramh Garbh (i.e. the rough quarterland). It looks as though these two districts (Ashir and Ceathramh Garbh), amounting to 1¼ davachs, were detached from Durness parish to help create the new parish of Edderachylis. Mackay puts it succinctly in his ‘History of the House and Clan of Mackay’ p 14:

 

“From Loch-Laxford north to Loch-Inshard [Inchard], the proper name is Kerru-garbh, or Rough-quarter, which it well deserves; and from thence to Sandwood, is Dochen-Asherin, or the Davoch of the Ashers, in modern times called Oldshores”.

 

[OSA (p 279) leaves it open that Kerru-Garbh may have been part of Ashir].

 

It is the district that was supposedly detached from Lairg which is more problematic. In geographical terms this stretched between Kylesku (i.e. the northern border of Assynt on the south) to Loch Laxford on the north. This includes farms like Scourie and Foindle which do occur in the records. However the 1623 Sutherland rental does not seem to include any west coast properties. This rental for the earldom of Sutherland gives 14 davachs as belonging to it in the parish of Lairg. (It then lists 90 pennylands which actually amount to 15 davachs). It may be that the earls of Sutherland owned no properties themselves in Edderachylis. Alternatively it may be that Edderachylis was reckoned separately to Lairg long before the eighteenth-century erection of a new parish. Certainly the Old Statistical Account of 1793 gives us no sense of Edderachylis having formerly been part of Lairg. One reason why I suspect that Edderachylis was always regarded as distinct is because it lies on the other side of the watershed (Druim Alban) from Lairg.

 

(See Assynt text file for OSA references to boundary disputes between the parishes of Edderachylis and Assynt).

 

RMS II (238) 1440 shows the Kynnarde family then owned Assent (Assynt). Assynt and Edderachylis are neighbours and were both parts of the Skelbo estate so it is likely that both districts were owned by the Kynnarde family as early as 1440. They were certainly both part of the diocese of Caithness (Earldom (Gordon) p 18):

this diocie [diocese] doth not onlie contayne the cuntrey of Catteynes, bot also Sutherland, Strathnaver, Assint, Durines, and Edderachilis

 

In 1515 Andrew Kynnard of Skelbo granted it to John M’Ky, son of Odo M’Ky of Strathnaver. It subsequently appears as part of the barony of Far.

 

In 1525 (Sutherland Book III No 74) Assent (Assynt) and Artrikquhilles (Edderachylis) appear amongst the lands of Skelbo. (Charters for Skelbo go back to c. 1211 in Sutherland Book III).

 

According to OPS II, II p 699 (quoting RSS Vol XXIV ff 97-8 – see RSS IV No’s 1371-2) Edderdaquhelis was forefeited by Donald M’Ky of Far and, in 1551, granted by Queen Mary to Robert, bishop of Orkney. On p 703 OPS II, II lists the lands of Aslarmoir (Oldshoremore), Aslarbeg (Oldshorebeg), Sandwet (Sandwood), Carrogarif (Ceathramh Garbh) and Carromanache (Ceathramh Meanach). The same lands are also referred to in 1559 (OPS II, II p 703 quoting Sutherland Charters).

 

In 1565 Edderdaquhelis was granted by Queen Mary to Henry, Earl of Ross ((RMS IV (1635)).

 

In 1570 the lands and barony of Far (including Edderdaquhelis, Skuribeg [Scourie Beg], Skurimoir [Scourie More], Calstrome [Kylestrome] and Isle of Handa) feature in a grant by George Earl of Huntlie to Y Macky (OPS II, II p 699 quoting Sutherland Charters). OPS II, II p 699 fn 5 claims that Sanda = Handa. (See the table of Durness farms for its value of 3d – which may imply half a davach). OPS II, II p 704 lists further lands which were sold by Huntlie to Macky as Keanlochbervie, Nahardin, Fenzedallis (Foindle), Laxford, Sandwat (Sandwood), the island of Hall, Alsnerbeg (Oldshorebeg) and Alsnermoir (Oldshoremore).

 

In 1577 we have a precept for a confirmation of a charter by the Earl of Sutherland to his wife who was a sister of the late Earl of Huntlie. The lands included Nethir Dawathellis. (RSS VII (1055)).

 

In 1589 Houcheon Macky, son of Y, gave the lands of Edderachilis and others to Alexander, Earl of Sutherland. (Earldom (Gordon) p 201).

 

Earldom (Gordon) pp 243-244 (& p 432)

John Earle of Sowtherland … took a new infeftment of the whole earledome of Sowtherland, by resignation thereof into his majestie’s hands, in the moneth of April 1601 yeirs; not onlie confirming the old regalitie of the earledome of Southerland … bot also conteyning divers other privileges; … and the vniting of Strathnaver, Edderachilis and Durines to the earledome of Sowtherland, as a portion and pairt therof;…

 

RS36/2/26v of 1606 gives us a list of farm-names.

 

In 1613 the Lords of Council stated that the lands of Adderaquhillis in the barony of Far were in the king’s hands by reason of nonentry since the death of I Macky in November 1536 (OPS II, II p 700 quoting Sutherland Charters).

 

Book of Mackay pp 287-8 quotes a document of 1620 from the Reay Papers (see also GD84/1/11/4). Neil Mackay resigned the lands of Keandloichberwie, Nahardin, Fanzidell, Laxfourd, Scowriebeg, Scowriemoir, Tarbet, Caldstrombeg, Caldstromemoir, Edderachylis, Islanhanda, Sandowatt, Alschelourbeg, Alschleormoir, Yrsgill, Badcall, Dowart, Naferss (?), Geiskill, ‘lyand betwix the merches of the water of Kylescoug [Kylesku] at ye sowthe, ye fylm [kyle? – this word may be a misreading] of Glencowiles and the mainesey at ye wast and northe plis, the Beallache of Corriechowne at ye eist sd’.

 

Book of Mackay pp 288-9 quotes a document of 1634 from the Reay Papers which refers to:

All and sundrie the lands … of Edderachilis … viz., All and heal the davach lands of Killstromes, the lands of Douartmoir, Dourtbeg, Geiskill, Badchuill, Skouriemore, Skouriebeg, Tarbeit, Feynidew, Rieroy, Auchtavikfarie [Achfary] … the ylland of Handa, with all and sundrie the yllands of Dewroy [Oldany], Mell-alands [Meall Mòr, Meall Beag], Galway [Calbha], with all the other yllands qtsomever lyand betwixt the Stoirhead in Assin at the west and the river of Laxford at the eist, with which the lands are boundit, and that as follows, viz. Glencoul [NC 2730] and Killkaik [?Kylesku NC 2233] at the south and south-west, the sea at the north till the water at Laxfuird and as the said water of Laxfuird descends from Knockan-Kelloch [Cnoc a’ Choilich NC 3734] and fra that to Loichmore [Loch More] and to Lochstak [Loch Stack] and therefrae to the sea, which waters as they run from Knockan-Kelloch to the sea are the marches cognoscit to devyd the said lands of Eddrachilis from Diridmore and the Ard … all lyand within the parrochein of Ardierurness in Strathnaver, and shirriffdom of Sutherland. (Also in GD 84/1/12/1 1634).

 

On this basis I have constructed a map listed as Edderachylis1634. The problem is that this district was definitely worth more than 1 davach. RS37/5/171r of 1634 gives values for a number of properties in this area (and a little to the north). They are a mix of davachs and pennylands but cumulatively come to 2½ davachs + 3½ pennylands.

 

A further complication is introduced by the inclusion of islands. Caithness & Sutherland Records Vol I, Part VII, London, 1913 pp 173-4 gives the islands granted by Robert II to Farquhar ‘leche’ (doctor) in 1386. These lay round the NW & N coast of Sutherland between Rhu Stoer in Assynt and Rhu Armadale. (See Durness text file for further references). I am not sure if Farquhar’s hold on these islands was more than nominal and some of them are also mentioned in other documents. Did islands like Eilean Chrona, Eilean a’ Ghamhna and the Dowellan have values?

 

In broad terms, Edderachylis in 1634 was understood to mean the land between Loch Glencoul at the south and Loch Laxford at the north. The name Edderachylis literally means ‘between two kyles (or narrows)’ which refer to the narrows at Kylesku and Loch Laxford respectively. The problem is, that like all district terms, it can be used loosely or in different contexts. So, RS37/3/291v of 1626 describes the ‘baronie’ of Eddrachylis as including not just the lands between the two kyles but also lands to the north such as Alschermoir (Oldshoremore), Alscherbeg (Oldshorebeg) and Sanduat (Sandwood). Accordingly we must adjust for context – by geography, parish or legal structure such as barony. I think the northern boundary with Durness and the eastern boundary with Lairg were more fluid than the southern one with Assynt.

 

Book of Mackay p 160 fn 1 prints a list of the farms in the Reay estate in 1681. Parts of this list seem to have a geographical order. One particular sequence runs:

Ardbeg, Ardmore, Kenlochbervie, Alsleorbeg, Alsleormore, Carnamanach, Sandwatt, Kerrowag, Havish. If these do in fact run clockwise round the north-western tip of Sutherland then Carnamanach must lie between Oldshoremore and Sandwood. I think the word (or ending) ‘Havish’ has been detached from Kearvaig and should read Kerrowaghavish. (See also under Durness parish & Durness Farms). Retours (Sutherland) (2) 1605 gives Carranagaweis, Carranamanache & Carranagarrowe which are probably three quarterlands viz. Gaweis or ‘Havish’, the middle quarterland and the rough quarterland. It looks as if the 1681 list reads from S to N, the 1605 retour from N to S.

 

GD 84/2/70 1787 states that Wester Kylestrome, Achfary [NC 2939] and the grazings of Letternafreavaig (Leitir na Freumhaig NC 3236) were all in the parish of Edderachylis.

 

We have then a number of documents which give us the names of the principal settlements in the district. Edderachylis seems to have been originally the area between Kylesku and Laxford. In 1724 it gained at least 1¼ davachs from Durness. We have very little concrete land-assessment evidence. In the Exchequer Rolls evidence from 1509-1558 Edderachylis is treated as a 1-davach farm-unit but we do not know precisely what it included. In 1634 Edderachylis included Kylestrome, which was a davach, and many other lands besides. In the table I have simply listed those settlements which are named in the documents. For most of these I have no valuations. Eddrachylis, as a parish, was probably of little value compared with any of the east coast parishes. It was part of the Skelbo estate which totalled 12 davachs. In theory we might be able to deduce the value of Edderachylis if we knew the value of all the other component farms. In practice I think there are too many uncertainties to do so. I am also unsure whether Edderachylis was included in the total of 12 davachs.

 

Edderachylis is comparable with the neighbouring area of Assynt to the south. Assynt was worth 4 davachs and it seems unlikely that Edderachylis was worth any more. We know it included at least 1½ davachs (Kylestrome & Handa) and the table suggests that the most probable total is 4 davachs (including Ashir & Ceathramh Garbh).

 

Robert Gordon of Straloch made considerable contributions to the Blaeu Atlas of Scotland and also provided written descriptions. One of these is reprinted in Macfarlane’s Geographical Collections II pp 455-456. Gordon makes the claim – which is reinforced by the maps – that Edderachylis extended from Durenish (Durness) in the north to Cheulis-Cung (Kylesku) in the south. I think this claim is misleading and have disregarded it. The parish boundary marked on Thomson’s map of 1823 is similarly misleading. The northern expansion of Edderachylis was late. There was perhaps a similar fluidity on the eastern border with Lairg. NLS Dep.313/3613 Sutherland, 1855 shows a parish boundary by Loch Merkland rather than Loch More.

 

We have a relatively late source (NLS MS 19308 f 4 – Genealogy of the Family of Assint 1739) which refers (ff 4 & 11) to ‘The 4 Davoch of Ederachillish’.

 

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